As we made our new to us winery tour through parts of NoVa, one of our planned stops was Capitol Vineyards. I’d heard some internet buzz when they first opened in the late spring as the owners are quite young (twenty somethings, if I remember correctly) and have no winery experience. I’d also heard about the small, historic, former general store that was serving as the tasting room. I didn’t remember anything particular about their wines, although I was pretty sure that Michael Shaps was serving as their consultant/winemaker.
The lack of buzz about the wines didn’t excite me, but I know enough to taste the wines and arrive at my own conclusions, so we ambled in to the small, tightly packed tasting room and hoped for the best. Everyone else in the tasting room seemed to have a Groupon coupon with them which entitled them to a special food and wine pairing tasting (at $20 a person, we weren’t biting). The one woman working could not keep up, and it definitely didn’t make me want to come back any time soon. Plus, had I paid $20 for this pairing, I would have been unhappy as it seemed like a Costco sample platter. I noted some spinach dip, a mini quiche, a brownie bite, etc.
Once some clean glasses were located and our pourer had time to make it to our side of the room, we began the tasting with the ’09 traminette ($21). It offered some spice on the nose along with some citrus and a ton of citrus on the palate. This wasn’t a wonderful example, but some floral and spice notes both came out as I warmed the too cold wine with hands around my glass.
We then moved on to the reds with the ’09 cab sauv ($23). Honestly, I worry when a cab sauv is the first red I’m served. This was a fairly light wine (for a cab), and the oak was more noticeable than I’d like, but there were some nice plum notes. It wasn’t a bad wine, but it wasn’t great. We then moved on to the ’09 cab franc ($23), a wine I liked better than the cab sauv. This is what you’d expect from a cab franc: cherry, black pepper, and some smokey tobacco notes on the finish. Again, not a rockstar, but fine.
The ’09 merlot ($23) was next. It had a lot of cherry/berry flavors with some oak and acid on the finish that made me want to put this wine with food – maybe a light beef dish. The final wine was the ’09 Meritage ($25), a blend of roughly even parts of cab sauv, cab frac, and merlot. I think this was their strongest offering. I noted earthy, red fruit (mostly cherry) flavors with a nice acid/oak balance. I still wasn’t feeling this wine at this price, but it’s definitely the one I’d want to revisit.
The wines here are all fine, but they’re generic. I don’t really want generic, and if I do, I can get that cheaper at other VA wineries. This is one of the downsides of custom crush and winemakers who consult for many different people – the wines stop being distinct. I also don’t think the daily deal site coupons are the friend of a business this new and this small. They don’t have the staff or space to handle this volume of people, they probably can’t handle the lost revenue of the discount (say the deal was for 50% off, and many sites then take 50% of what people pay), and corners end up being cut (the options for the food pairing and the interaction with customers). Plus, few people who buy these deals seem to convert into regular/repeat customers.
I always pull for new wineries to make it, but they’ve got to get the service dialed in if they want it to work. They also need to find ways to make their wines show well and as distinct…unfortunately, this is a problem a number of wineries are starting to run into.